90+ Parker Points
From low-yielding vines planted in the early 1970s and tasted from the fine lees in July 2018, the 2017 Welschriesling Franz Lackner is a reminiscence to Kathi's grandfather, who planted Welschriesling in the top Ried Steinbach, a warm, west-facing vineyard on chalk-free, silty-gravelly soils. This was whole-bunch pressed but with no movement of the basket, racked by gravity into a 1,000-liter barrel and then fermented and aged on the full lees until June this year. It offers a clear, deep, ripe and spicy-mineral bouquet with yeasty, lemony and mineral aromas. Full-bodied and lush on the palate, this is a round, intense, well-structured Welschriesling with serious length and mineral expression. This 2017 is a great answer to all of the banal, primary/fruity and terribly reductive wines for which Southern Styria has become infamous. Katharina's grandfather would be pretty proud of this wine, and I suppose he would even love to drink it! Tasted July 2018.
Stephan Reinhardt für Robert Parker